Sit back while taking in the view, select a glass or bottle from the extensive wine list, and wait for the magic to unfold. The décor is modestly sophisticated but deeply classy, which works perfectly, as the attention is placed firmly on the food, served with precision by professional staff. My starter, the roulade of game wrapped in Parma ham, tasted so divine I almost felt guilty eating it.

Expectations were high for the main course, and Strok's delivered with distinction. Beef fillet with carpaccio of wild mushrooms and smoked peppers, complemented by gratin potatoes, was sheer bliss. My guest's selection - herb-crusted pork fillet with pomme anna potatoes and apricot-scented ratatouille - was more elaborate in appearance but equally good.

It is my suspicion that head chef Stephen Boucher reserves a large portion of his culinary passion for dessert, as his banana cake drizzled in toffee sauce and finished with ice cream and a slice of dried banana is a particular delight.

Prices represent surprisingly good value, with a two-course table d'hôte particularly popular. This is a wonderful place for a romantic dinner or lively celebration. This is dining with distinction; dependably impressive cuisine with unmatched service and atmosphere.