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Location: Playhatch, Reading, RG4 9QU Tel: 0845 241 2951 Open: Mon noon-3pm, 7pm-11pm; Tues-Fri noon-3pm, 6-11pm; Sat noon-3pm, 6.30-11pm; Sun noon-3pm This exceptional eatery reverberates with what I can only describe as 'funky class'. Just a brief glance at the menu sends the message that those who run Shoulder of Mutton, on the outskirts of Reading in Playhatch, are seriously interested in making art out of a firstclass dining experience. The restaurant was originally three Victorian farm workers' cottages but the new interior is bright and cheery, with low-beamed ceilings and a modern conservatory that seats 24 and is lovely for a peaceful gaze across the garden. All dishes are cooked to order and use a wide variety of ingredients from local suppliers. I enjoyed the starters: Tuscan Experience (£5.50) and Italian Riveria (£5.25). The former engulfs layers of oak-smoked chicken with mascarpone cheese upon layers of filo pastry, surrounded by sun-dried tomato coulis and rocket pesto. The latter, aubergine and courgette fritters, are served with Provençale sauce and parmesan shavings. Classic mains include the namesake Shoulder of Mutton (£12.75), slow roasted in red wine, rosemary and red capsicum peppers, and 'Liberty' mussels (£11.50), cooked with fragrant coconut, coriander and chilli and served with saffron-scented rice. Desserts, if you can squeeze one in, are all £4.75, many are home-made. Great food and drink await you at the Shoulder of Mutton.
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