The reputed mantra here is 'simply traditional', but I think it should be 'simply delicious'. With a glorious mix of fare ranging from starters of breaded whitebait, country pâté, and Welsh rarebit, to main courses of huntsman's pie and stuffed trout, it is certainly traditional, yet the flavours somehow are acutely progressive. The rich selection is lovingly created using seasonal ingredients hand-picked and carefully sourced from some of the UK's best home-grown producers.

You feel welcome at The Red Lyon the moment you walk through the front door. The staff are stupendously helpful, and, thankfully, thoroughly charming. Every aspect exudes comfort and warmth: a beautiful, roaring log fire creates the perfect ambience for savouring a delicious pudding of egg custard tart or lemon posset.

The wine list, too, is as extensive as it is pleasing, with an enviable selection hailing in turns from various regions of France, Italy, Spain, and the New World. The staff know their grapes, too, and are particularly accommodating by encouraging a taste before you make your selection.

The Red Lyon is wholesome food and friendly staff in an idyllic setting. In fact, I've changed my mind: the mantra should simply be 'simply great'.