The Pavilion Dining Room is an elegant restaurant where nonresidents can eat in style. Head Chef Graham Turner has recently taken charge and his influence on the menus is bringing a modern touch, particularly noticeable on the table d'hote menu (changed monthly, £35 including coffee) which we sampled.

Three courses, with three choices in each, the 'to start' course offered celeriac soup (wonderfully flavoured), an interesting game terrine, or gravadlax with a fennel and shallot compôte. These whetted our appetites for the 'to continue' selection of chicken with pancetta and black pudding and beautifully cooked monkfish with saffron mash and rosemary jus. There was also a vegetarian risotto with truffle oil. Finally, 'to conclude', we sampled a memorable pink grapefruit tart with pink peppercorn sauce anglaise - a most unusual combination which was sensational. We also ordered the cheese selection which was well chosen (and enough for 2 to share). Our coffee was served in the Monkey Room, surrounded by murals dating from the 1730s.

The service was both friendly and professional - what one would expect in such a well-run establishment.

If you want to eat more simply, the Candles Lounge serves hot and cold food at any time between noon and 10pm - and this includes a traditional English tea with scones, clotted cream, sandwiches and cakes.