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Location: The Old Cricket Common, Cookham Dean, SL6 9NZ Tel: 0845 241 2929 Open: Tues-Sat 7pm-10pm; Sun (lunch) 1pm-4pm Accomodation Mon-Sat Email: reception@theinnonthegreen.com Website: www.theinnonthegreen.com Cookham Dean - that quintessential English idyll. Tradition, you may think, is at its heart. And on first glance all seems as it should. But walk through the doors of The Inn on the Green and prepare to be amazed. This 'restaurant with rooms', sister of the much-lauded Embassy in London's Mayfair, is another joint venture of restaurateur Mark Fuller and renowned chef Garry Hollihead, and follows the theme of relaxed glamour and sumptuous sophistication. There are three interconnecting dining rooms. The beautifully lit Lamp Room is home to a magnificent wine rack and central chandelier. The adjacent Stublie is wood panelled from floor to ceiling, while the Conservatory offers light and space. The Mediterranean-style Courtyard is perfect for whiling away summer afternoons. We ate à la carte in The Stublie. My dressed crab with smoked salmon, haricot vert and tomato (£14.50) was full of interesting textures and flavours and my partner's Provençal fish soup (£6.50) was wonderful. On to the main event: I wanted something light, so was recommended half a grilled lobster (£19.95). And while my intention was to show restraint, my resolve failed as I tucked into a side of fat chips (£3.95) to mop up the delicious lemon and herb butter sauce. My partner's breast of pheasant (£18.50) was tender and appealingly presented. Desserts are worth saving space for. All priced £6, they include white chocolate cheesecake, strawberry soufflé and a selection of cheeses. Enjoy Sunday lunch for £23.50 (children under six eat for free), or the weekly-changing menu du jour - excellent value at £16.95 for two courses, £19.95 for three. This is one of those places you'll want to brag about having found, while wanting to keep the secret to yourself. Just be sure to book in advance.
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