Being some distance from the coast, one could be forgiven for believing the proprietors might be challenged to live up to the establishment's quintessentially aquatic title; however, diners and regular patrons testify to the punctuality of daily deliveries from Cornwall's shores to The Crab's doors. The maitre d', Sean, extolled the virtues of the tastebud-enticing oysters on the day I found myself in the environs of this gourmet's rural Wonderland. Patrons testify to the sumptuous delicacy of the oysters Sean recommends, especially when they are followed with the port-sized glass of Guinness he suggests as the perfect complement.

Given the myriad temptations of the comprehensive à la carte menu provided, I found it difficult to choose. I sampled King Scallops, accompanied by caramelised apples, bathed in Sauterne. Lounging in the comfortable, minimally furnished room, whose net-draped ceiling loaned a solitary concession to the eatery's piscatorial theme, I could easily have accepted every delectable salver offered to me.

The dessert offerings - summer berry pavlova, peach melba and a dark chocolate mousse, with passion fruit sorbet - were not for the faint-hearted. From the listing of handsome wines, many originating from single vineyard estates, the Sommelier might beguile the adventurous. However, there was no disapproval expressed when I resisted further indulgence and requested plain water.

Beyond the menu, there are rooms to accommodate the traveller, or those who cannot face the drive back to the Big Smoke. Secluded behind the restaurant, these ten evocations of selected luxury resorts (Bora Bora, Gleneagles, Sandy Lane, Hacienda, Cipriani, Treetops, Raffles, Bird Island, La Mamounia, Chiva Som), dotted around an exotic courtyard, with a surprise central feature - a hot tub - are secreted amongst bamboo and palms. Imagine the fun to be had booking the whole caboodle for that special celebration.

The Crab at Chieveley is unquestionably a one-off, resplendent with components of the multi-faceted essence which makes Great Britain unique; bolstered with a restaurant of the highest calibre, one would easily assume this place must have enormous appeal to tourists and international visitors. But isn't it about time we started being a little selfish and kept some of our national treasures to ourselves? Namely, this quaint retreat from the urban maelstrom.

Remember, be sure to book in advance.