The Bear caters both for corporate events and private individuals looking simply to get away and indulge. Having recently undergone a refurbishment, the resultant modern furnishings and design are pleasantly accommodating: they are at once delicate, subtle, comfortable and elegant. Among the new additions are a contemporary cocktail bar, a sophisticated dining room, and an endearing private lounge that can handle up to 20 guests.

This is a warm and inviting, sophisticated and earthy place, with an intelligent blend of furnishings both modern and traditional. The fusion of contemporary and natural lighting supplemented by lovely candles only adds to the dining area's warmth and aesthetic appeal.

But how is the food? Superb. The menu offers a welcome combination of meat and fish dishes all thoughtfully prepared and presented. Some of the choices are exotic, others decidedly traditional.

For starters, my wife and I chose the salad of tea-smoked pheasant breast with wild mushrooms, crispy bacon and winter vegetables - all drizzled with a light and zesty plum vinegar; and carpaccio of smoked haddock and fresh scallops with a horseradish and peppercorn jus. And the palate cleanser? Nothing less than apple and rosé ice served in a frosted glass. A nice touch, indeed. Head chef Phil Wild's 23 years of experience are showcased in virtually aspect of your evening at The Bear; his culinary prowess is enviable.

For my main course I decided on the treacle-roasted quail with crispy duck bubble and squeak and a balsamic reduction, while my wife dined on Cornish brill poached in vanilla milk with squid ink noodles and savoury saffron sauce. Each selection was every bit as good as I'd hoped it would be.

For pudding, I highly recommend the Bear's asiette of mini desserts, as it's truly difficult to decide on just one of their triumphant sweets.

The Bear Hotel is an absolute treat in every aspect. The cuisine, décor, ambience and service are as good as it gets.